GUIDE
The used-car inspection checklist.
Do the free public-record check first, then run this list in person. It is not a substitute for a mechanic, it is what gets you to one with the right questions.
Start free, before you drive out.
Pull recalls, complaints, safety ratings, and fuel cost for the exact year, make, and model first, so you walk up already knowing what to look for.
STEP 1
Before you go: do the free research
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Look up the year, make, and model for open recalls, owner complaints, and crash-test ratings.
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Note the components owners complain about most, so you know what to check in person.
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Ask the seller for the VIN up front and decode it. Confirm the year, make, and model match the listing.
STEP 2
Exterior
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Panel gaps even on both sides. Uneven gaps or mismatched paint can mean past bodywork.
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Look down each panel in the light for ripples or overspray (a sign of repairs).
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Tires: even wear across the tread, matching brands, and a date code under ~6 years old.
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Rust at the rockers, wheel arches, and underbody. Surface rust is normal, flaking or holes are not.
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All lights work; glass has no cracks; the windshield wipers clear cleanly.
STEP 3
Interior
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Every electrical item: windows, locks, AC and heat, infotainment, cameras, seat adjusters.
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Warning lights illuminate at key-on and then go out. One that stays on is a real flag.
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Seats and belts for wear that matches the odometer. Heavy wear on a low-mileage car is suspicious.
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Smell for mildew (water leaks or flood) or heavy smoke. Lift the floor mats and check for damp.
STEP 4
Under the hood
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Oil: level on the dipstick, not milky or burnt-smelling.
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Coolant level and color; no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil.
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Look for active leaks, cracked belts and hoses, and a battery date within a few years.
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Start it cold if you can. A cold start reveals smoke, rattles, and rough idle a warm engine hides.
STEP 5
The test drive
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Brakes: straight, quiet stops with no pulsing in the pedal.
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Steering: tracks straight, no pull, no clunks over bumps, full lock both directions.
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Transmission: smooth, predictable shifts; no slipping, flaring, or harsh bangs.
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Listen at low speed and at highway speed for new noises or vibration.
STEP 6
Paperwork and the VIN
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Title status in hand matches the listing. Salvage or rebuilt changes the whole calculation.
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The VIN on the dash and door jamb matches the title and the listing.
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Check the VIN for open recalls at nhtsa.gov and complete any free remedy.
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Service records, if any. A documented history is worth real money.
WALK-AWAY TRIGGERS
Decide these before you fall for the car. If you hit one, leave.
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Signs of flood or salvage that were not disclosed.
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A VIN that does not match across the dash, door, and title.
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"Mechanic special" framing or a seller who blocks a pre-purchase inspection.
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A price that only makes sense if you ignore a branded title.
Want to understand the data first? Read what complaints mean and what recalls do and don't tell you.
THE FULL BUYER'S REPORT · $3.99
Found the listing? Get the verdict.
The research above is free. The app takes a screenshot of one real listing and returns a verdict, a fair-offer number, the red flags specific to that car, a walk-away floor, and a message you can send the seller, word for word.